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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2010 :  19:15:18  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here is the crossmember fitted properly with all new bolts.


Next problem is the brake reaction rods - the part of the rod under the rubber bushes slowly disappears over time. Eventually they get so thin they can snap - these ones aren't too far gone. I've ground this back to good metal and you can see where it's got thin.


I welded a series of runs then ground it back to get this - not perfect but good enough:


A coat of paint and back onto the car:

Edited by - 1922 on 10 Oct 2010 19:16:45
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2010 :  23:03:20  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Kept it standard - complicated enough already :-)
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janmarine3

South Africa
286 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2010 :  20:56:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi 1922,
wow....good job . It is going to be a cool feeling for you to drive it again .
Did you alter the angle the engine is at for any reason or keep it standard ?
regards
Jan.
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2010 :  11:22:36  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Once it's had a few coats of paint hopefully it will look like it's always been there. One day I've got to deal with the MOT man who probably will be happy but also I've got to get some insurance and they will want an engineer's report so the more 'factory fitted' it looks the better.

Edited by - 1922 on 30 May 2011 17:46:36
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Jon

United Kingdom
221 Posts

Posted - 04 Oct 2010 :  00:26:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fantastic job that cross member looks factory fresh now no one would ever know


Hillman Avenger MK1 GT,
Commer PB Pick-Up x2,
Commer PB Panel Van,
Dodge spaceavan Auto sleeper,
Triumph Stag MK1,
Chevette HS x2,
Lancia Delta Integrale,
Fiat Mk1 Uno Turbo,
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 03 Oct 2010 :  14:38:13  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Progress has been slow over the last couple of weeks as I've been busy turning the apples from my tree into cider.

Here is the crossmember connected to the old engine.


It wasn't any trickier to bolt up than the standard crossmember, so I've welded the towers on properly cleaned it up and paint it with anti-rust treatment:


And some black smooth hammerite:


Next step is to refit all the suspension and go for a drive (around the garden)
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 11 Sep 2010 :  20:16:01  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Today I've been fitting the engine mount towers to the crossmember. Though pretty much the correct shape the fabricator had made them too tall - my fault really I didn't give the guy any drawings to work from.

So after much measuring I cut down the left mount by 20mm.


It's 4mm plate - so it took a while with the jigsaw, hacksaw and grinder. Here is the left mount welded to the crossmember with a couple of tack welds.


Same process with the right hand mount - this need 27mm removing.


Here is the whole thing assembled. I've added some red lines to show the critical measurements.


Next step is to trial fit the engine. If all is well I will weld the mount towers on properly.
The mounts are quite flexible so great accuracy isn't needed on the mount towers - but I've tried to keep the measurements within a two or three millimetres of the original.

Edited by - 1922 on 18 Sep 2010 12:14:44
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 05 Sep 2010 :  16:46:58  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Got a little more work done today. Removed the crossmember to get started on the engine mount towers.
The towers are close - but will need some adjustment as they are a little too tall. Especially the one of the left of the picture.


First step is to finish off the welding - as once they are welded to the crossmember the access will be difficult. So I've just run a quick weld along all the joints.
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 05 Sep 2010 :  16:43:49  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Video of the steering column turning. You can that the shafts are almost straight!
http://s941.photobucket.com/albums/ad256/1922rapier/Rapier%202/Steering%20Rack%20Project/?action=view¤t=SteeringColumn-Small.mp4
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2010 :  23:24:06  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Support bearing is done - so time to get the column connected to the rack.
This is the shaft that connects to the Avenger rack. On the Avenger it connects the steering column to the steering rack. Things do not line up so well on the Rapier so I will need a double joint. The Avenger shaft is too long - so the first step is to shorten it, here it is with middle cut out.


Still too long so I cut out everything I could, then ground the ends to a point ready for welding.


Here it is welded.


I cut the Mercedes steering box shaft in half and welded on a 1 inch piece from the end of the Avenger steering column to make an intermediate shaft between the two universal joints (fortunately BMW and Mercedes use the same size shafts with same number of splines). Unfortunately in all the excitement I completely forget to take any pictures ).
But here is the whole thing on the car. I've also removed the rubber shock absorber from the Avenger column to gain another inch of space (and there's already one on the upper column - I don't need two of them).



And for added excitement a video !
http://s941.photobucket.com/albums/ad256/1922rapier/Wheel2.mp4

Edited by - 1922 on 29 Aug 2010 23:54:23
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2010 :  22:55:07  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Been busy again this weekend. Got some help from the guy that's restoring my '46 Minx (http://www.buskellengineering.co.uk), he kindly made this plate to mount the support bearing for the steering column.


I then fitted the BMW bearing using silicone sealant - it should allow some flexibility and hopefully will be strong enough.



I bolted this to the bulkhead and refitted the lower column. It all fitted neatly. The support bearing should prevent any sideways movement of the lower column.



Edited by - 1922 on 30 May 2011 17:41:27
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 19 Aug 2010 :  13:24:20  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the encouragement.
To be honest there was a certain amount of luck involved. The Avenger crossmember is so close in size and shape it is a fairly easy job - without that I don't think I would have dared tackle it.

If you want to see a really excellent engineering job you need to look at Neville Higgin's V8 Fastback build. This guy is a proper engineer!
See http://www.sunbeamcarclubofnewzealand.org.nz/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=76:v8-sunbeam-rapier-fastback&catid=38:articles&Itemid=56

Edited by - 1922 on 19 Aug 2010 13:25:05
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1922

United Kingdom
549 Posts

Posted - 19 Aug 2010 :  13:10:13  Show Profile  Visit 1922's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Ha ha - no I've got enough jobs on the go already

Back axle might fit - I don't know.
Front end is very different, H120/Rapier/Hunter is macpherson strut.

A friend of mine once had a plan to use the front and rear subframes (complete with engine, gearbox, suspension and brakes) from an Jaguar XJ6 4.2 in his fastback. That would have been a lot of fun.
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janmarine3

South Africa
286 Posts

Posted - 18 Aug 2010 :  14:50:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
wow . You are doing an excellent job, your pic's makes me understand how things actually work. I wonder if anybody has ever built all the H120's mechanicals into a series Rapier body...I would like to tackle that, but fastback and especially H120 spares in South Africa is ( or are ? ) scarce. Pop on over to SA and give us a hand then ?
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Jon

United Kingdom
221 Posts

Posted - 16 Aug 2010 :  21:21:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fantastic work.
Will be worth it when done
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