| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
bigt80
United Kingdom
1052 Posts |
 Posted - 14 Jul 2010 : 10:37:49
|
quote:
Originally posted by Holbay120
From the way you describe pulling the front of the window and then it works it's almost certainly the metal tube has corroded inside the little bit of foam at the bottom to stop it rattling, I've had this problem 3 times now. As Derek said they are poor quality and the foam soaks up moisture and then it just stays wet and rot's the metal tube. The good news is if you remove it as per haynes manual and pull it out through the aperture in the bottom of the door it comes out pretty easily. I did this just last summer and to repair it a bit of lorry brake-pipe was split lenghtways and shaped to fit over the tube and then braised the ends ( see photo's) over the rotten bit
Hope this helps, I'm sure it will be easy for a man of your undoubted fabrication skills Regards
David McKenna
Yes, excellent job there David, if the spiral drive has not gone this is a great way of saving these very rare items; so folks, don't chuck them out if they can be saved in this way: even if you don't have David's braising skills  . Cheers. Glen. |
 |
|
|
arrocuda
United Kingdom
501 Posts |
Posted - 07 Jul 2010 : 19:05:15
|
Nice neat job you've done there David. I've never braised anything before so not sure I deserve your confidence.... but I'll give it a go. Is only like a plumbers welding I'm thinking. Probably make a right 'town halls' of it now!
The boot lid is starting to happen and is ready for welding on, so it might take a back seat for now if it turns out that you are right and the tubing needs replacing. Will get down again this weekend and check it out.
The boot lid is starting to excite me... as I've already placed the metal on loosely and is looking good. Really need to keep the momentum going on that job if I can. The body work is so near to completion.... I just need to make that final effort. Really looking forward to putting all the body work tools away and moving on to the interior. |
|
|
|
Holbay120
United Kingdom
177 Posts |
Posted - 06 Jul 2010 : 22:02:51
|
From the way you describe pulling the front of the window and then it works it's almost certainly the metal tube has corroded inside the little bit of foam at the bottom to stop it rattling, I've had this problem 3 times now. As Derek said they are poor quality and the foam soaks up moisture and then it just stays wet and rot's the metal tube. The good news is if you remove it as per haynes manual and pull it out through the aperture in the bottom of the door it comes out pretty easily. I did this just last summer and to repair it a bit of lorry brake-pipe was split lenghtways and shaped to fit over the tube and then braised the ends ( see photo's) over the rotten bit
Hope this helps, I'm sure it will be easy for a man of your undoubted fabrication skills Regards
David McKenna |
Edited by - Holbay120 on 06 Jul 2010 22:04:37 |
|
|
|
arrocuda
United Kingdom
501 Posts |
Posted - 06 Jul 2010 : 20:40:22
|
Thanks for the detailed response. I am hoping to get down there this weekend and will give them a looking over for the faults you mention on your list of likely causes. If it's possible to adjust the location of the window by either lifting the forward end or lowering the trailing end a little, then I might be in with a chance.
They all seem to wind up fine as long as you pull the window back from the forward runner, as you raise it. Will let you know what I find.
Building the '2nd series' fastback Rapier ('Arrocuda'). |
|
|
|
1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
Posted - 05 Jul 2010 : 13:41:24
|
The window mechanisms are cheap, nasty, flimsy, poorly made and hateful things. I've spent many hours trying to getting the bl***y things to work properly. I have, many times, considered designing something to replace them.
Where the mechanism is bolted to the door they used small bolts in big holes with penny washers. You can move the bottom of the forward runner about just by loosening the nut and moving it about. This will move the whole front runner and quarterlight.
You can move the rear runner in the same way, top and bottom. This also allows you to tilt the glass in and out.
Where the glass is fixed to the drive cables there is also adjustment. Just loosen the setscrews and you can lift or drop the glass, this allows you to tilt the glass up and down.
There is a glass guide screwed in the back of the door that has a little movement. It's a triangularish plate with a nylon insert and held on by two or three self tapping screws.
There is a bolt in the back of the door just above the lock that controls the maximum height of the rear of the window. When loosened this can be moved up and down.
The problems you may find:
- The springy inner cable has a groove worn it by the gear in the winder.
- The metal parts of the cable tube will have rotted away where the little bit of foam is used to stop them rattling (at the bottom of the door).
- The cable tube will spread and allow the glass mount to escape.
- The plastic part of the tube has split.
If you are very lucky, just raising the glass on the front mount may cure it. Be careful about closing the door after adjusting the glass, and good luck! As a precaution I advise putting some beer in the fridge before you start. You'll probably need one later |
Edited by - 1922 on 05 Jul 2010 20:04:23 |
|
|
|
arrocuda
United Kingdom
501 Posts |
Posted - 05 Jul 2010 : 13:03:34
|
Hi... I have 4 doors for the f/b and 3 of them have 'wind up' problems. After playing with them, it appears that the window is not aligned correctly, such that it keeps snagging on the forward runner. This appears to be same fault on all 3 so I'm thinking is maybe a common problem.
Expected there to be some way of adjusting it, but cant find anything, although is hard to see everything when your working inside a door. Checked the Haynes and of course no mention of adjustment, only removal. Do we have any windows gurus amongst us?
Thanks....
Tim.
Building the '2nd series' fastback Rapier ('Arrocuda'). |
|
| |
Topic |
|
Window regulator mech's
