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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
 Posted - 27 Jan 2015 : 22:35:07
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I have an MOT!
'70 Sunbeam Rapier
'77 Triumph Spitfire 1500 |
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Arran
United Kingdom
89 Posts |
Posted - 26 Jan 2015 : 17:57:52
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Why do you not use the picture upload possibility below the text window? Click on the «paperclip» and follow the instructions.
Best greetings from the Isle of Arran in Scotland.
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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
Posted - 26 Jan 2015 : 16:31:41
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Welding done, and MOT booked! :D
My pictures don't seem to work on here, so I won't put any more up, but if you're on the Rapier Facebook page I've put some on there.
Aaron
'70 Sunbeam Rapier
'77 Triumph Spitfire 1500 |
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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
Posted - 16 Jan 2015 : 20:19:00
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quote:
Originally posted by NZ120H
Door hinges can be repaired with an 8mm bolt and nut. The difficult part is pushing out the original pin. The hinges are cast metal and can break if hit with a hammer. An engineering shop should be able to do this with a press. Then bore out the bearings in both pieces and insert a bronze bush 8mm internal diameter in the outer parts and two bushes in the centre piece. Make sure the wire stop and roller are in the right places.
regards, Brian.
I'll give that a go when I get round to sorting the door!
Currently it's still off the road, I haven't had the time to finish the welding and get it MOT'd - but it's pretty much there. |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1052 Posts |
Posted - 04 Jan 2015 : 17:48:47
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Hi Brian,
Good advice there. I wish I'd kept a few more old hinges over the years that were in otherwise good condition.
Thanks too for info you sent to me on Bresco. That's where I got clips for window trim & glazing rubber: they're a good firm; and good to know that something else works for sill cover top trim. Cheers.
G |
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NZ120H
New Zealand
12 Posts |
Posted - 03 Jan 2015 : 22:03:42
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Door hinges can be repaired with an 8mm bolt and nut. The difficult part is pushing out the original pin. The hinges are cast metal and can break if hit with a hammer. An engineering shop should be able to do this with a press. Then bore out the bearings in both pieces and insert a bronze bush 8mm internal diameter in the outer parts and two bushes in the centre piece. Make sure the wire stop and roller are in the right places.
regards, Brian. |
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JPSH120
United Kingdom
1180 Posts |
Posted - 26 Nov 2014 : 09:59:38
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A belated welcome, you have excellent taste in classics!
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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
Posted - 25 Nov 2014 : 16:22:21
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I bought a new dip switch, washer pump and switch at the NEC, and they're all fitted and all work. There are a few patches needed underneath, and then it'll be ready for an MOT!
Aa |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1052 Posts |
Posted - 31 Oct 2014 : 17:51:04
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OK; thanks for the additional info, I'll see what I can do on those bits.
Cheers.
G |
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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
Posted - 28 Oct 2014 : 16:22:34
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Hi,
The badge is just the insert, there's a metal square on the bonnet all ready.
The dip switch is indeed floor mounted.
I'll take the door apart at some point and have a play then, it may just need a good fettle.
Currently the light switch goes, from top to bottom, off, dipped, side. It won't do anything else! :P
Aaron |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1052 Posts |
Posted - 25 Oct 2014 : 20:35:17
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Hello Aaron,
Great choice of car. I got my first Fastback at 19 & that was it  . I've added some comments to your request below.
quote:
Originally posted by Aar0sc
Hi,
I'm Aaron, I'm 20, and I've recently bought this 1970 Sunbeam Rapier:
It's a fine machine, with a few weeks MOT left, and only a few small holes, minor electrical issues, and an almost completely not-there central prop bearing. (Club did have centre bearings in stock)
Other than welding, it needs:
A bonnet badge (I've got my priorities right, as you can see), Is that complete or just insert?
A headlamp dip-switch, Is that floor mounted? - I guess being 1970 it is.
A driver's door bottom hinge (I've been told these are rare, so if anyone knows how to resleeve them, do tell me :) ),
Driver's window cog (most of the teeth aren't there, making it pretty hard to wind up), Hard to get a drivers window mechanism. They're actually cable driven.
Headlamp switch - if the original ones are hard to get then it doesn't matter, currently it's a slight bodge with just a metal pole switch. But all the headlamps do now work; when I bought it both front indicators would come on when the ignition was on, then went off when you started the engine, and full beam didn't work, and only one headlamp flashed!! Should have one of those about on an old dashboard somewhere 
Aaron
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mytocon
United Kingdom
22 Posts |
Posted - 25 Oct 2014 : 11:26:51
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hello Aaron, told you you could do it
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andyb
United Kingdom
367 Posts |
Posted - 24 Oct 2014 : 12:54:55
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welcome to the forum Aaron
I have seen pictures of you car on facebook hope you enjoy it :)
sometimes nothing can be a real cool hand |
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Aar0sc
United Kingdom
6 Posts |
Posted - 24 Oct 2014 : 12:44:40
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Hi,
I'm Aaron, I'm 20, and I've recently bought this 1970 Sunbeam Rapier:
It's a fine machine, with a few weeks MOT left, and only a few small holes, minor electrical issues, and an almost completely not-there central prop bearing.
Other than welding, it needs:
A bonnet badge (I've got my priorities right, as you can see),
A headlamp dip-switch,
A driver's door bottom hinge (I've been told these are rare, so if anyone knows how to resleeve them, do tell me :) ),
Driver's window cog (most of the teeth aren't there, making it pretty hard to wind up),
Headlamp switch - if the original ones are hard to get then it doesn't matter, currently it's a slight bodge with just a metal pole switch. But all the headlamps do now work; when I bought it both front indicators would come on when the ignition was on, then went off when you started the engine, and full beam didn't work, and only one headlamp flashed!!
Aaron |
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Topic |
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New Rapier Owner
