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Fastback Thomas
Belgium
423 Posts |
 Posted - 24 Sep 2010 : 18:51:32
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Ok thanks I'll see wath I can do with al your information.
I'll probably end up using the standard ones, with other springs...
Many thanks.
I like a car thath looks normal but can really knock you off your socks! |
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1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
Posted - 24 Sep 2010 : 13:56:20
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Happy to help,
If you do find some strut inserts the next problem is fitting them. To replace the insert you have to unscrew the retaining nut, this is difficult because usually the strut has been hammered over the nut to stop it coming loose. This is difficult to undo - because when you bend it straight it stretches the metal and then the nut won't stay in.
I've done two sets of these and on one strut the nut kept coming loose.
Eventually on my 1840 I went back to standard struts with the Sierra springs on - this works ok. So if you want a fast road car and not a track car get some new or reconditioned late style H120 struts and use early model Sierra (1984ish) springs. That will also save you a lot of money 
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Fastback Thomas
Belgium
423 Posts |
Posted - 22 Sep 2010 : 18:05:02
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Thank you Derek,
I'm happy to have this information. I could have probably found it in one of the books we have but by asking you, I now have extra info.
I'm planning to get my car in our basement, that way I can work on it during winter.
I'll have a good look at the suspension and then perhaps I'll try to make something out of it later on.
IF (and I say IF) I find something for the earlier models and it improves the handling I'll sure let everybody know.
Regards Thomas.
I like a car thath looks normal but can really knock you off your socks! |
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1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
Posted - 19 Sep 2010 : 20:58:34
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Hi Thomas,
If you '68 has the original struts it will be different. The struts up to '73 look like this:
From '73 onwards they look like this:
The difference is the lower spring support. On the early cars the spring goes outside the lower support. The late cars the spring goes inside the lower support.
The spax inserts are not height adjustable as they go inside the standard strut. They will fit '68 struts. They are adjustable for stiffness - but I found that I had to use the softest setting. As far as I know Spax don't make them anymore. I think Leda suspension might still make them they used to list Hillman Hunter on their price list. You'll have to ask them - sorry - it was many years ago I did this and I lost the part numbers. |
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Fastback Thomas
Belgium
423 Posts |
Posted - 12 Sep 2010 : 20:13:49
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Hi Derek,
Is there any difference between my '68 rapier suspension and your '73
Or can I also use the sierra front springs and strut inserts on mine.
You have spax adjustable strut inserts, do you have some more info on these? Are they ride height adjustable,...or do you have any numbers of these?
Many thanks.
I like a car thath looks normal but can really knock you off your socks! |
Edited by - Fastback Thomas on 19 Sep 2010 12:00:24 |
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1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
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setchrapier
United Kingdom
11 Posts |
Posted - 15 Feb 2010 : 19:20:02
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Many thanks Derek
Much appreciated.
Once I get started on the Rapier I will adopt your recs. Mine is destined for a life of historic rallying. Already got an Imp ,but my son has eyes on it 
I will try to get some pics up of my car soon.
Nick
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1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
Posted - 15 Feb 2010 : 14:22:35
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This is for Setchrapier and anyone else interested.
Here are the modifications I did to my 73 Rapier to make it more fun.
Front suspension:
40% uprated early model Sierra front springs.
(Oddly '73 onwards Rapier and early Ford Sierra springs are almost identical size and strength).
Later type (73 onwards) type of front strut which will take the springs.
This stiffened up the front end nicely and also lowered about 20mm.
Spax adjustable strut inserts.
Rear suspension:
Standard Rapier 4 leaf springs lowered 1" with lowering blocks.
Spax adjustable dampers.
Engine: Holbay marathon.
1840 overbore.
Holbay E128 cam.
Inlet ports increased by about 40% area and inlet manifold matched.
Innards all balanced.
Standard H120 exhaust manifold, but larger from there back and fully stainless, rear silencer box is empty and just holds the tail-pipes.
Standard H120 DCOEs, air intake (box & saucepan style) and jets.
Drivetrain:
Standard but rebuilt. If you try to use a worn gearbox with this engine you will probably find that it keeps jumping out of gear.
Later J type overdrive (stronger and engages faster).
Standard H120 8 inch clutch.
One piece prop-shaft from a Hunter GLS. Don't even think about using the standard split prop - you'll shred the rubber mounting for the centre bearing in seconds.
Back axle is H120 ratio with reconditioned differential from RJ Grimes (long ago!).
Steering & brakes:
All standard, but all new (calipers, servo, master cylinder etc)
Wheels:
7 x 15 TSW Stealth allows, with 195x50x15 tyres. Need a 3mm spacer on the front to prevent the tyres rubbing on the strut tower supports at full lock.
I don't think you can get Spax for Rapier & Hunter anymore. But Leda were advertising these quite recently - but they were not cheap.
If you want to talk engines, there is a guy in the club named Howard Johnson, and I have heard Chris Draycott recommended. I have always gone straight to Holbay (on the theory that they ought to know what they are doing with a Holbay engine) and been very happy with the result. You can find Holbay at http://www.coltecracing.com/engines.html, the man to talk to is Richard Coles.
Conclusion:
This gets you a car that doesn't roll much on the corners, has plenty of grip and much more overtaking potential, it won't sway about in sidewinds on the motorway anymore and it will do 30 to the gallon (if you want it to!).
But don't do a full throttle launch on dry tarmac with 195 tyres, you will put a twist in the overdrive input shaft. I twisted mine about 15 degrees.
Derek |
Edited by - 1922 on 24 May 2010 17:56:58 |
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Performance mods for fastbacks
