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Sunbeam-mike

United Kingdom
165 Posts

Posted - 30 Mar 2022 :  13:29:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Afternoon Gents,

'68 Fastback.

I've attempted to adjust the valve clearances a couple of times but it always sounds like a bag of spanners.

I know they should be adjusted when the engine is nice and hot, and I attempt to finish the procedure before the engine cools.

Maybe something is worn. After all, it's no spring chicken!

I thought I'd try and adjust the gap by using the pitch of the screw: Finger tight the adjustment screw then back off the correct amount of degrees to get the proper gap.

Anyone done this? Or think it's a good idea? Definitely don't want to burn a valve!

Mike Hooper

Bodiam

United Kingdom
41 Posts

Posted - 14 May 2022 :  14:00:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi, Mike,

Sorry to be so long posting a reply, I don’t visit the forum very often.

Not heard of anyone doing this, but theoretically it should work, I suppose.

If your tappets are still noisy after adjustment, maybe the rocker arms are worn where they impact on the valve stem. If so, your feeler gauge will be measuring across the rim of the wear (if you see what I mean) but the actual valve clearance will be your feeler gauge measurement plus the depth of the wear.

Thinking about it, your method would take the wear into account, as you will be setting the gap between the valve stem and the bottom of the wear pit. I seem to recall there was a tool on the market years ago which worked on this principle - I don’t think it was very popular, though.

Interested to hear how you get (or maybe got) on.

Cheers,

John

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Panky

United Kingdom
70 Posts

Posted - 14 May 2022 :  14:40:34  Show Profile  Visit Panky's Homepage  Send Panky an AOL message  Reply with Quote
The SPQR Tappet Adjuster. I've use one for years and found it very useful.
Plenty on Ebay. Different manufacturers used a different pitch thread on the adjusting screw so make sure the kit contains the conversion chart, if you get one that is.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165476411455?hash=item268729a83f:g:3FoAAOSwtWxiTtUE
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Bodiam

United Kingdom
41 Posts

Posted - 14 May 2022 :  18:57:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That’s the one! Takes me back a bit.

John
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Sunbeam-mike

United Kingdom
165 Posts

Posted - 16 May 2022 :  18:21:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I chickened out in the end.

I talked to a couple of ex-car mechanics at work and they thought it rather chancy - you'd have to know the pitch of the screw (unc/unf?)
and they talked me out of it.

I adjusted the gaps to be rather 'snug', and the engine seems a little better.

I'll keep an eye out for that kit. That particular listing has ended.

Cheers

Mike Hooper
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JPSH120

United Kingdom
1180 Posts

Posted - 16 May 2022 :  22:49:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What oil are you using?
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Sunbeam-mike

United Kingdom
165 Posts

Posted - 18 May 2022 :  13:02:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi,

Standard 20w50. Halfords I think. With a drop of Penrites in it.

Mike Hooper

Edited by - Sunbeam-mike on 18 May 2022 13:03:00
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jimlagos

United Kingdom
205 Posts

Posted - 27 May 2022 :  14:26:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Going back to the original question, I usually use a dial guage on a magnetic base, simple and accurate.

jim
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Panky

United Kingdom
70 Posts

Posted - 27 May 2022 :  16:45:56  Show Profile  Visit Panky's Homepage  Send Panky an AOL message  Reply with Quote
That would work on an iron head but you would struggle with a mag base on an alloy head.
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jimlagos

United Kingdom
205 Posts

Posted - 27 May 2022 :  20:41:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Obviously but therefore I put the magnetic base on some convenient part of bodywork, which hopefully is steel. Adjust the supports and arms to suit. Always works for me on several makes of cars.

jim
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Panky

United Kingdom
70 Posts

Posted - 27 May 2022 :  23:03:55  Show Profile  Visit Panky's Homepage  Send Panky an AOL message  Reply with Quote
There's always a way if you put your mind to it
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