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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Bodiam Posted - 16 Dec 2018 : 14:25:27
Hi, I’m new to the world of Rapiers, having picked up my 1963 111A last Monday. I have a problem which I hope someone can guide me with.

As soon as the engine starts to warm up, it dumps water out of the overflow until the top radiator tank is empty. Topping up results in the same thing again after a few minutes. There is no water in the oil, nor oil in the water, nor is there any steam from the exhaust. It isn’t possible to see if there are any air bubbles in the top tank with the rad cap off as it gushes over the radiator neck as soon as the thermostat opens, it seems.

I have tried a NOS AC Delco 4lb cap in the hope it might be a simple cure, but no luck.

I’m thinking along the lines of a head gasket bleeding combustion gases into the water and over pressuring the system but would be very grateful for any guidance anyone can give me on this.

I will introduce myself properly as soon as I can!

Many thanks, John

John D
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Bodiam Posted - 04 May 2019 : 09:29:17
Sorry to be so long posting an update but life has got in the way and I have only just completed the repair. Fitting a new head gasket seems to have fixed the problem, so many thanks to those who suggested this was the fault. The head has been overhauled and hardened exhaust seats fitted - maybe unnecessary but cheap enough to do while the head was off.

My concern over bottoming of the head bolts was not misplaced, the head had been extensively skimmed in the past and the centre bolt on the nearside was too close to bottoming for comfort, so I refitted this with a thicker washer.

Many thanks for the help and advice, on now to the gearbox oil leak and beyond!

It’s good to know that the forum is there to help, I’m sure I will be back.

John
Bodiam Posted - 31 Jan 2019 : 09:41:23
Thank you, Jason, that’s really helpful and now very clear what I should be looking for.

Very grateful for the help I’m getting here, I have a feeling you may not have heard the last of me!

John
JPSH120 Posted - 31 Jan 2019 : 09:24:12
Face of the head should have notches in it, similar to the one in this image;



If they're not visible, then the head has been skimmed to it's max.
Bodiam Posted - 31 Jan 2019 : 07:56:10
Hi, Jim,

Thank you for the reply, I’ll measure up as you suggest and hopefully put my mind at rest.

John
jimlagos Posted - 31 Jan 2019 : 00:11:26
I believe that there is indication of amount of skimming by the recesses
machined into the edge of the head itself. I don't know how to load a photo, but hopefully somebody can do some kind of photo or drawing to show what I mean. As for "bottoming" out of the head bolts you can get an idea if you just screw the head bolts into the block until a little bit more than finger tight and measure them? Then check the cylinder head to ensure that they are down enough to clamp the head down.

jim
Bodiam Posted - 29 Jan 2019 : 16:56:13
Head off at present for crack testing. A bit concerned that there is no obvious sign of gasket failure, just a general overall deterioration.

The head has had some welding done previously to broaden the land between the water jacket and the edge of the cylinders which is quite narrow and the head has been skimmed after that.

Does anyone know the original depth of the alloy head on a Series 111A? The reason I ask is I have noticed another thread where the owner found the head bolts were bottoming because the head had been skimmed and I’d like to be able to avoid this problem.

Thanks in anticipation for any help.

John
Bodiam Posted - 29 Dec 2018 : 21:48:53
Thank you, Glen.

John D
bigt80 Posted - 29 Dec 2018 : 19:50:02
Yep; 4lb for the early cars - always seemed v..low :-).
I'd agree head-gasket & just to also confirm that Speedies supply top quality cu/st H.G's for c. £11.50 + the postage. I've used several over the years with no issues. A lot of NOS stuff is not really usable these days. Best of luck with the fix. Cheers. G.
Bodiam Posted - 18 Dec 2018 : 20:58:24
Hi, tgr747,

I believe the 4lb cap was fitted to Series I - IIIA cars, increased to 9lb for Series IV to V (unless anyone has better info than I’ve found in the catalogues).

Your post has made me think, though, that I ought to check that the engine in my car is actually the 1600 it started out with before I do anything else.

Thanks for the pointer.

John D
tgr747 Posted - 18 Dec 2018 : 19:25:55
I am no expert but is 4lbs the normal rad cap for this engine?
Bodiam Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 20:10:34
Thanks for the suggestions Jim, I’ll give them both a try. Won’t be making any more progress before Christmas now, but will post any useful information as I go along.

I’ll certainly have the head crack tested and hope there’s nothing else hiding away!

Best wishes,

John D
jimlagos Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 19:58:06
I've used speedy spares for parts, and also Alpine West Midlands.
Never had complaints about either. If anybody has comments it might be useful.
Good luck.
P.S check carefully for any cracks in the head!


https://www.speedyspares.co.uk/
http://www.sunbeam-alpine.co.uk/

jim
Bodiam Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 12:18:36
Now I’m going to be taking the head off (unless anyone has any 2p washer fixes in mind!) I’d be obliged if you could recommend a supplier of a good quality head gasket set.

I come from the world of Triumph TR’s, where there is so much Chinese junk on the market (and I don’t mean their boats) that inside information on quality is invaluable.

Thanks in anticipation,

John D
Bodiam Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 10:10:05
Good morning, Jim, thank you for the reinforcement.

I guess it was hoping for too much that someone would have had a similar experience and fixed it with a 2p washer!

Head off is no bad thing anyway, the car hasn’t been converted to unleaded so that would be a good excuse to get it done.

Thanks again, John

John D
jimlagos Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 08:40:25
Good morning.
99.9% sure it's head gasket!

jim

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